Do the hustle

When we set out today for the Ho Chi Minh tourist area I wasn't keen on visiting Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, even though it's one of THE sites to visit while in Ha Noi. But when you're travelling you have to be flexible...

We walked through Lenin park on the way. Stopping to take a photo of Le Nin's statue, we were amazed that, out of nowhere, two women carrying traditional yoke baskets had them on our shoulders and conical hats on our heads saying 'you want photo?' before we knew what was happening. Then not one minute later we had a couple of 'students' asking for donations. So I was preparing myself for a day of tourist hustle - but after this we had no hustle at all. And there weren't many Western tourists around either!

The lineup and procedure to get to Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum is serious, and seems to be the only way to get into a huge area which includes a number of sites to visit. So I visited the mausoleum. You have to leave large bags at the front entrance - then later in the queue you have to go through a metal detector, and your camera has to be carried in a little red (of course) bag. Then later again, still in the lineup, you have to leave your camera and little red bag to be collected once you've been through the mausoleum. 

Today being a Sunday, it was really busy and the lineup was huge. Visiting the area is obviously a local favourite for a family day out. The white-uniformed guards keep people moving and it didn't really take long till we found ourselves shuffling up the steps and around the bier in the cold, dark mausoleum. For the locals in front of me it was obviously an important occasion. The admiration and respect was palpable. 

Then it was out into the daylight to collect the camera and see the rest of the area - One Pillar Pagoda, HCM museum and surrounds. 

Dien Huu Pagoda, HCM complex

We then walked to West Lake (yes, that's really its name!) and had a fantastic lunch next to the water, watching the swan paddle boats. After lunch, a visit to Quan Thanh pagoda was a lovely experience, with worshippers giving the place a spiritual feeling that I haven't sensed in any other similar visit so far.

West Lake, Ha Noi

On the way back we happened upon a fabulous archeological site (Thong Bao), and the Hanoi citadel, which we decided was way too huge to see this afternoon - so we've decided to revisit for a proper look. 

Dragon steps, Citadel

Then, after a rest back at the hotel, we finally had some beer hoi (fresh beer), and some great pork with black pepper at The Windmill (Coi Xay Gio). Fantastic day. 

BBQ

Behind all the bikes is Cafe Trang, opposite the Temple of Literature: great coffee

ToL park: We saw bulbuls (info for the twitchers).

Tonight's dining venue - excellent

Here comes the train

Today I saw a barbecued dog for sale in the bustling market next to our hotel. Even though I was brought up on a farm and am not squeamish about eating animals for food, my Western conditioning kicked in - it was a confronting sight. 

Hanoi delights

Books! This morning we started the day by checking out Trang Tien street, which has multiple bookshops selling foreign books, as I cleverly noticed on the taxi ride to our hotel yesterday. (We caught the Jetstar bus most of the way, then had a short taxi ride once in Hanoi). At the end of the street is the Hanoi Opera House, a magnificent building. We then took a turn around the lake (Hoan Kiem) and had a look at Ngoc Son temple. There were a number of bridal couples getting photos taken around the lake, including one bride in a racy red number, causing a sensation.

Bride in red

After a rest back at the hotel, in the late afternoon we went out to check out the night markets on Hang Dao Street. We were too early for the markets (they don't start until about 7.30pm) so we went to Little Hanoi for some refreshments.

Safely inside Little Hanoi

We had a couple of cocktails and some spring rolls Imperial Hue style. Like this:

We love a pineapple

Our pineapple caught fire soon after this pic, but the spring rolls were fab. After dining, it was time for the night markets. Along with the usual market fare, there were a couple of stalls selling handmade cut out cards. I bought a couple for 30,000VND (about $1.50) - absolute works of art, from Hyuen (sp?), who told me she makes them all herself and only sells them at the market. This girl needs a distributor!

We also had some lovely street food: chicken skewers cooked over coals, and for dessert, green jelly with coconut and peanuts. We think. Tasted great. 

If it's Thursday, this must be Hanoi

With no word on M's interview outcome, we decided to come up to Hanoi to check it out. So today we caught a Jetstar flight and we're now in the middle of Hanoi - on the edge of the Old Quarter.

We were sad to leave Saigon Apartments, which was starting to feel a bit like home.

Saigon Apartments rooftop garden

SA is located in the quietest street in HCMC

On the web, our new hotel boasted a Sky Bar which sounded enticing - luckily this was not the only reason why we wanted to stay here, as this is what it's looking like at the moment! 

The staff tell me: "Skybar only in summer".

The hotel does, however, win my award (just invented) for most intriguing bedside table 'stuff' : on one side, writing pad, pen and hand-held massager; on the other, a small tray with an intricately carved hand mirror, what looks like a business card holder (very stylish) which holds two strawberry flavoured condoms (that's what the packaging suggests, anyway) and a pack of cards. Party! In the absence of a minibar list, we're not sure if these are items are included in the price of the room or not.